Letter 24    From Clonakilty, Cork, Ireland
May 30, 1942

Clonakilty, Cork, Eire
May 30, 1942

Dear Mom, Dad & All:-

     It's Saturday morning and I'm here at Charley Dullea's really enjoying my vacation, or holiday as it's called here, to the utmost.  While I have the time and the inclination I'll write a review of my trip to date so that you can enjoy, mentally at least, the things I did.
     I came off duty at one p.m. last Friday and after having dinner, packing my bag, and cleaning up a bit I started for town at two-thirty accompanied by Park Riggs, the other American CTC on the station.  The first stop was the laundry where I got everything fresh and clean for the trip.  Then to the tailors where I had left my suit to be sponged and pressed.  Donning this I left the uniform I was wearing with him for cleaning and pressing and we went over to Strathdee's restaurant for tea.  It sure seemed queer to be wearing civies again and become just one of the crowd.
     After tea we headed for the depot and I procured my ticket in exchange for the government warrant.  Inquiry revealed the train was due to leave for Glasgow in fifteen minutes, so I said Au Revior to Riggs, procured a paper and magazine to read and got aboard.  The train was packed and I wandered from end to end looking for a seat.  I finally found one in a compartment with three women of middle age, a sailor and a soldier.  After we got started the women started up a conversation and soon everyone was joining in.  They were all very curious about me, of course, and I told my story for the ten thousandth time.  After a while one of the women brought out a bag of candy and passed it around and another bag of cookies.  It was all very cozy and pleasant listening to their Scotch accented chatter and to hear their opinions of the war, politics, the food situation, prices and the like.  We rode together until we reached Perth when I had to change trains for Glasgow.  After doing so I found myself in company with an RAF Pilot Officer who wasn't particularly communicative and a couple other civilians.  Except for a very few words with the officer, the rest of the journey to Glasgow was made in gloomy silence, everybody reading or looking out of the window.  The scenery all along was well worth looking at.  The rugged countryside was never flat for more than half a mile and the mountains reared up in the distance.  The stone fences that separated the fields still gave me that impression of fairyland and with the fields now a bright green it was very attractive.
     We arrived at Glasgow at nine o'clock at the Buchanan St. Station.  As I was going by plane from Glasgow to Belfast.  I had to be at the Central Station in the morning so I thought I'd better get over there at once and check up on my reservation, etc.  Coming out of the station into a city I'd never seen, I hadn't the slightest notion where the Central Station might be, so I asked a bobby for directions.  After having them repeated about three times to enable me to translate his thick dialect into understandable English, I set off with about a mile to walk through the heart of town.  I could have taken a bus or tram, but as you don't learn anything that way, I chose to walk.
     I wound my way through the busy streets with little difficulty and in my civvy clothes appeared to be enough of a native to not merit more than a passing glance from the hundreds walking about.  It was still broad daylight of course.  In spite of the clock, and I was able to see all the points or interest as I went along.  It didn't require more than half an hour to reach the station and inquiry at the airway office revealed that my reservation was okay and I was told to be there at 8:45 in the morning.  Well, that was that; and now all I needed was a place for the night.  Without any idea of where to go, I approached a window marked "Information for the Forces" and after stating my position and showing my identification card the young lady said she had a fine place in mind for me and would call up and see if there was a vacancy.  There was, so she wrote the address on a card and directed another woman to take me out and get me started right.  These woman wear a blue uniform with Women's Volunteer Service on their hats.  She took me out and across to where I would catch the tram and waited with me 'til it came.  As I was getting on a gentleman told the woman he'd see to it that I got off at the right place as he was going farther along the same way.  We climbed to the upper deck and as we sat down he offered me a cigarette and then paid my fare when the conductor came around to collect.  If that isn't hospitality, I don't know the meaning of the word.  We had quite a little chat on the war and the U.S. as we rode along and when we came to where I got off he told me just how to go to find the hotel, which I did in a few minutes walk.
     I went up to the door and looked for a bell, but didn't see any, nor any knocker either.  However there was a sort of knob at one side and I took hold of it and noticed it was attached to a cord which held it against the wall.  I was trying to puzzle it out when the door opened and a women looked out at me with a big smile and said, "Just give it a good pull and let it go," and laughed.  Of course there was no need to, then, so I followed her in.  "Would you like a cup of tea and a bite to eat?" she asked me and I accepted.  She then asked me my name, and led me into a large room of about 14 x 30 feet with a long dining room table in the center and many chairs about it.  "This is Ed Martin," she said to the bunch there, "meet everybody."  Sure shook me.  There were about twelve fellows and girls there, some in uniform and some not.  They all said hello and one of the girls, a Winnepeg native serving with the ATS invited me to sit next to her and poured me a cup of tea.  We had a bit of conversation while I ate a couple sandwiches and a piece of cake which had come in a package one of the Canadian soldiers had received that day.  The group with whom I was associated were billeted there and it certainly was a homey democratic atmosphere with none of the formality of the usual hotel.  After I had finished eating the proprietress showed me my room, which was a large, one with three beds in it.  I and one of the other fellows went to bed right away and the third fellow came in later.  It was a good bed and I slept like a rock.
     They awakened me at seven-thirty next morning and after having breakfast and a shave, I thanked the landlady for the cordial welcome I had received, paid her the five and six pence ($1.10) for the room and breakfast and set out for the station.
     Arriving there I filled out an embarkation card, secured my tickets, and boarded the bus which would take me to the airport.  It was soon filled with passengers for Belfast and Campbelltown and we headed out toward the field.  It wasn't a very good morning, the clouds were thick and heavy, and the sun shown but dimly.  Arriving at the airport we had to face the police and immigration inspectors, my passport was inspected and stamped, and I was ready to go.  The small plane for Campbelltown took off first and then they warmed up the four motored plane which we were to take.  I was much disappointed to find the windows covered over with translucent but not transparent paper in accordance with the defense regulations.  I had hoped to look over the great shipping centers and the islands along the river Clyde, but such was not to be.  Finally the plane was ready and we got aboard.  There were twelve passengers in all.  The motors roared and after taxiing to the end of the runway, we were off.  It's rather a queer sensation at first, you feel the plane bumping along as it gathers speed and then suddenly you realize you're in the air without knowing just exactly when you left the ground, because you can't see a thing with the windows covered.  I read the morning paper and a Reader's Digest while we soared over the Irish Sea and in an hours time felt the plane dropping out from under me as we lost altitude coming in to land.  It was a perfect three-point landing without a bump and as I climbed out of the plane I was rather disappointed to find it pouring down rain.  Again there was the immigration authorities to contend with, which didn't take long and we were bundled into seven passenger sedans and set out for the center of Belfast, the capitol of Northern Ireland.  We were set out at the central airway ticket office, so I inquired about my return trip, but found everything reserved for the next tnree weeks, which meant I'd have to return by boat.  I had them put me on the waiting list in case someone cancelled and then set out to find the American Consulate and get my passport fixed up for another six months.  I had intended going to Edinburgh on the way down, never having got there before, to have it done, but Saturday was the only day I could get a seat on the plane so had to change my plans.
     A bobby, this time with an Irish Brogue, directed me to the consulate wnere I was given a hearty welcome by Mr. Fuess, the American Vice Consul.  We talked for an hour or more on the usual subjects.  He was a great fellow about my own age and we got along well.  One of the girls filled out the forms which I signed and I was O.K. for another six months.  I asked him where I should go for a good dinner, and he said such a thing wasn't to be had, but the Bonacorn Restaurant was about the best bet and he told me how to get there.
     I took off again in the rain and found the place.  The headwaiter showed me to a table, called another to bring me the menu, and departed.  I had a fine meal, lobster soup, half a roast chicken, mashed potatoes, fresh green peas, apple tarte (pie), and coffee (six shillings, $1.40).  Feeling satisfied with the world in spite of the rain as I came out with a full tummy, I decided there was no use hanging around as it was too wet to do any sightseeing.  I started out to find a railway station.  I did after a tram ride costing a penny, but it was the wrong one, so I had to board another one and go clear across the city to a second station.  I hadn't any idea when I'd catch a train (they don't print time tables any more), but I found on my arrival that I had just ten minutes to get aboard for Dublin.  Dame Fortune was really good.  The train was packed to the guards and there wasn't a chance to get a seat in the third class so I got into a first class compartment with another fellow and away we went.  The conductor didn't collect the extra fare since the train was so full, so once again I had the best at no extra cost.
     At the Eire border we once again had to go through the immigration and customs inspections, once by the British and once by the Irish.  They're still mighty particular about these things, since Eire is neutral.  After a three hour journey during which I spent the time conversing with the Irishman in the compartment with me about Ireland and the problems of the Free State.  It was very pleasant and we shook hands at parting in the depot at Dublin with mutual respect for each other.  I went into the depot restaurant and had supper and then set out to see Dublin and find Tom Shelly.
     I've reached the Air Mail limit and as I've been writing for nigh onto three hours, I'll sign off and continue in another letter about how I had the wrong address for Tom, how by coincidence I finally found him, and the fine time I had in Dublin.

Cheerio, 'til the next installment,

Bob